Andy Tauer has continually played with this theme, and nothing has matched the highly praised L'Air du Desert Marocain for its lucidity, which sketches a picture of the Maghreb desert: infinite planes of sand, a vast cloudless blue sky, and spice markets in the distance. It is a fantasy that approaches the universally agreeable sensation of sunlight on blushing sand and desert winds carrying a melodious flow of spices, resins, and incense.
For a real bounty, consider Jubilation XXV from Amouage - utter luxury, it's like uncovering the treasures of Aladdin’s cave, where the very best Omani Silver Frankincense melds with tart blackberry, honey, and addictive oud. Its magic is the rendering of many notes so to receive them in a singular instant – a beautiful demonstration of coherent blending on part of master perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour. Jubilation XXV rightfully smells celebratory, but also authentic and confident.
Epic Man (Amouage) generates a photorealistic picture of the Silk Road, where cultures once fused, and spices were king. Rare oud mingles with a bold blend of mace, saffron, leather, and castoreum. There is char and power in Epic Man, but this is contained within the confines of an excellent structure, with proportions that never slacken. Softness is found with Divine Vanille (Essential Parfums), inverting the typical markers of a powerful fragrance – the salubrious breath of clary sage enlivens a spicy medley of black pepper, cinnamon, patchouli, incense, and tonka bean – fronted by Madagascan Vanilla. This fragrance is engulfed in a fragrant smoke, steeping spices in a resinous syrup. There is brightness here, nuances of fruit and floral, showcasing a distinctive side of the spice spectrum.
Etat Libre d'Orange's Spice Must Flow champions cinnamon - that blunt blushing spice, and puts it in tension with the cooling green spice of cardamom, pepper, cumin, and the crisp fire of ginger, all at the behest of a magnificent Turkish rose note. Look through Spice Must Flow, gaze at its dizzying surfaces and its magical ornament, and cascades of incense is revealed. This fragrance is a weave of aroma and sizzle, warmth surrounding a cool heart, spices between the folds of rose petals – a precious, all too precious unguent emanating a healing heat. Extending this theme, 500 Years (Etat Libre d'Orange) adds saffron to the composition, its honey sweet shine the perfect complement to the rose note, balanced with oud and rolling it in bitter cocoa powder. The difference is earthiness, a collage of notes that make up a singular impression – velvety, dry, full-bodied.
